Glenwood Gold Medal gas/wood dual fuel informational catalog
A wonderful new range, so named to commemorate the bestowal upon all Glenwoods of the Gold Medal Award at both the San Francisco and San Diego Expositions - 1915.
Weir Stove Company,
Makers of the Celebrated Glenwood Ranges for Coal, Wood or Gas, Heating Stoves and Furnaces.
The Gold Medal Glenwood is a new, distinct type of combination range, in fact, two complete modern ranges using different fuels, skillfully built into one compact stove for greater convenience.
There is absolutely no danger in this combination, as the gas section is as entirely seperate from the coal section as if placed in another part of the kitchen.
Although it is less than four feet long, it can do every kind of cooking for any ordinary family by gas in warm weather, by coal or wood when the kitchen needs heating and by a combination of the two in emergencies.
The coal section burns either hard or soft coal, coke or wood, and the gas section either manufactured or natural gas.
Cast Iron is used wholly in the construction of the coal section, as this the most durablt material known for a coal rage.
The Gas Section oves are made of White Aluminized Sheets. This metal is highly desirable for a gas range as it heats quickly, is rust resisting and keeps the kitchen cook in summer.
The Gas Broler Oven, above at the right, is the same length as the gas baking oven - eighteen inches wide, sixteen inches deep and twelve inches high. It is fitted with a cast iron shelf adjustable to any height, and a jointless sanitary drip pan containing a neat, wire rack.
The Broiler Burner is rectangular in shape with six arms each with two lines of flame. It has one hundred and fifty squares inches of direct heating surface and is removable.
The Gas Baking and Broiling Ovens are lined with white rust-resisting aluminized sheet, that do not chip off, but keep smooth and last with the rest of the rage.
The Heat is under complete control and can be regulated by means or burner cocks at the side.
The Back above the cooking top is protected by white enameled splashers, easily kept spotless, and the gas broiler door is panneled with the same material.
The Capacity of a range is an important consideration when buying. Many combination ranges have one rather small baking oven. A feature of the Gold Medal Glenwood is two very room baking ovens as shown in these pictures.
Pastry Baking is being done in the gas oven, where it is progress is always in sight. The most delicate cake can be perfectly baked and watched through glass paneled door.
The Heat in the gas oven is so uniform that two shelves are provided, and two batches of bread or pastry can be baked at one time.
A Large Roast and other baking can be done at the same time in the coal oven. Thhe advantage is plain - two ovens give double capacity, and allow the cook to complete the baking in one-half the usual time.
Just see the cooking surface at hand if want to rush things.
By using both the coal and the gas sections of the top, nine large cookin guntensils may be quickly heated at the same time, or the coal section may be used for boiling and the gas section with burners turned low may be used for simmering or keeping warm the dishes already cooked.
A Push Button Lighter for lighting all cooking burners is can be furnished at slight additional cost.
The Oven Burners are the one-piece type, easily removed for cleaning and cannot be put back wrong. The end of each burner is machine faced ad carefully fitted with a steel air shutter, which can be accurately adjusted to give the proper combustion.
The Tight Joints and tight-fitting doors of the gas section are an important feature, as less gas is needed than in ordinary ranges.
The Glenwood oscillating shelf under the coal oven door is a great convenience when basting meats or removing food as it is ingeniously arranged to move up exactly level with the bottom of the oven when the door is opened. The Swing Oven Door is acknowledged the most satisfactory in preserving heat and in baking.
The Glenwood Swing Door is always tight when closed, no springs to get out of order, and allow door to become loose and waste heat.
The Lower Oven is roomy and can be heated by either wood or coal. It is fitted with an adjustable shelf, and will bake evenly its full capacity at one time.
The Nickel Edge Band is not bolted but held by a patent spring latch which one finger will unsnap when it is to be taken off. This feature will be appreciated when it is necessary to clean the range.
All Gas Cocks have adjustable orafices, allowing just the right amount of gas ro be supplied to burners for perfect combustion.
The Glenwood Pedal Oven Door Opener unlatches and opens the door by a slight pressure of the foot with both hands are occupied.
The Grate can be drawn out from beneath the firbox linings without their being disturbed. so that a new grate can be replaced and still keep in use the odl linings.
The Sectional Top over the Coal Section prevents warping and is so planned that by changing the cross-shaped castings that hold the covers a wash boiler may be placed at the back of the range, leaving the fron two holes free for cooking.
At a glance the Glenwood Patent Indicator on the oven door tells the degree of heat required for boiling, baking pies, plain or sponge cake, bread and biscuits and the indicator point registers the degree of heat already in the oven. It is so plain and simple you just can't make a mistake.
Any one of the three different Coal Grates may be used in this range according to the choice of the purchaser. Firebox linings made of fire clay are recommended for burning hard coal; and east iron linings for soft coal. When burning wood only, the Glenwood Wood Grate, with cast iron side linings to match, increases the fuel space and is most efficient.
The Fuel Recommended is a good grade of hard coal, in either nut or stove size. The better grades of soft coal, however, may be used with good results.
This Range is Most Attractie looking and its appearance of efficiency is fully sustained by its performance.
Coal Range Flues ahould not be allowed to fill with ashed and soot, as no ranges can do good work if the flue spaces are obstructed.
Doors of easy access have been provided in the Gold Medal Glenwood Range for properly cleaning all flues. See plate A and B in diagram below.
Instructions for Cleaning Flue Spaces
- To Clean the Top Oven Flue
Remove the four lids in coal range top and scrape all ashes on oven top directly into fire box as indicated by arrow number one.
- To Clean Oven Side Flue
Remove Plate A located beneath pan under gas cooking burners and scrape all ashes to bottom as indicated by arrow number two.
- To Clean Oven Bottom Flues
Remove Plate B under shelf below oven door and scrape all ashed out through opening B into a pan placed on kitchen floor. Arrows number three and four indicate direction to scrape. Be careful to replace plates A and B securely.
A Glenwood in pearl gray porcelain enamel adds a new charm to cooking. No more soiled hands, no more dust and smut.
Picture and Comfort of being able to clean you range perfectly in less than two minutes.
Polishing the stove, once one of the most hated task in household work is now the easiet, - simply wipe a Glenwood with a damp cloth and in no time you have a sparkling clean surface.
Resolve never to polish the old stove until you see the Glenwood dealer about a new pearl grey porcelain enameled Gold Medal Glenwood - the range that "Makes Cooking Easy".
GWKR Glenwood Duplex Instructions
Glenwood Duplex Oven Adjustments After making adjustments according to directions given, check results with illustrations below.
BAKING WITH GAS Raise oven burner handle "A". Set thermostat at desired oven temperature. Turn oven gas cock in direction marked "oven" and light burner. Place oven burner baffle plate "C" on first runway above burner. Place oven baking rack "D" in oven one or two runners above baffle. When the oven reaches temperature the oven burner flames will shorten slightly.
NOTE: A roasting pan can be placed on baffle plate "C" instead of baking oven rack "D".
BROILING WITH GAS Raise oven handle "A". Place oven burner baffle plate "C" on first runway above burner. Turn oven gas cock in direction marked "broil" and light broiler burner in top of oven. Place broiler pan in proper position and close oven door. The food to he broiled should be placed about 1.5 to 2 inches away from flames.
BAKING WITH COAL, OIL OR WOOD Raise oven burner by pushing down on lever "A". Push lever "E" toward hack of range. Open slide damper “F” keep “G” closed. After fire has a good start, pull damper "E" toward front of range. When oven has reached desired temperature as shown on oven heat indicator, the damper “F” is closed slightly and "G" is opened a little.
IMPORTANT GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS Be sure all joints in smoke pipe and where pipe enters chimney arc made TIGHT. The stove pipe should project through the brick wall into the flue about two inches and must fit tightly into the chimney hole. Damper in back of gas top burner chamber should always he in a closed position.
NOTE:WHEN BAFFLE PLATE IS NOT IN USE, HANG ON CONVENIENT HOOK IN BACK OF RANGE MANTEL.
DAMPER E (COAL OVEN BAKING DAMPER).When open (pushed toward back of range) provides direct draft to chimney. When closed (pulled toward front of range) causes heat to circulate around the oven. Always keep closed when baking in oven with Coal, Oil or wood.
OVEN HEAT CONTROL. ALWAYS rely on Oven Heat Control when baking with GAS. Heat Indicator on oven door is for coal, oil or wood fired oven ONLY and is not intended to register Gas Oven Heat accurately.
GWKR Peerless Instructions
DIRECTIONS FOR SETIING UP AND OPERATING THE
Peerless Combination Gas-Coal/Wood Range
READ IT RIGHT NOW
1. Look your shipment over carefully before you accept it and take it from the freight station.
Our shipments are so packed and crated that not one in a hundred is broken in transit, but-if any parts should be broken, or if it is otherwise in bad order, ask the railroad agent to write what the damage is on the freight bill he gives you.
The Railroad Company's rules require him to do this. Sometimes agents decline, and if your agent does so, have some disinterested party examine the shipment and give you a written statement of its condition.
Send the freight bill or statement to us, and describe the broken parts and we will at once send you new ones, by the quickest means of transportation at no expense to you. The sectional views shown in this circular will enable you to describe the parts wanted.
Do not send us the broken castings unless we request you to do so. When we have the freight bill with damages noted on it, or the statement above referred to, we cart collect the amount of the damages from the Transportation Company.
Without it we cannot make claim for damages. Therefore, we ask you to help us make the railroads pay for negligence and carelessness as well as for the annoyance caused both you and us for something, which is entirely their fault, and not ours.
2. See that your chimney and pipe are alright before you set up your stove and attempt to start a fire.
Before Setting up Your Stove
Don't Fail to Read This!
Perhaps no article that is used in the household is subject to as many difficult requirements and unfavorable conditions as a range, a cook stove or a heating stove. Many persons think that a stove or range should always work successfully regardless of the conditions under which it is set up and operated.
A range or stove has no draft in itself. The chimney alone furnishes the draft that fans the fire and makes it burn.
Put your hand in the stove before it is connected· to the chimney with a stovepipe and you can feel no draft at all, but when properly connected with the chimney the draft can be felt in the stove.
This is a plain, practical demonstration that the chimney and stovepipe create the draft. Yet many persons complain every day to some manufacturer or some dealer that their stove has no draft, that they cannot do anything with it.
Read each paragraph carefully and look to the point covered by that individual paragraph by itself, going over the entire list.
- The chimney should always be at least three feet higher than any other part of the house or its surroundings.
- If the chimney is not high enough so as to create a good draft, extend it with brick and mortar, tile or a stack made of galvanized iron or sheet iron. The stack should not be less than eight inches in diameter, and must fit perfectly tight where it joins to the top of the chimney.
- No trees should hang over the top of the chimney. If there are any trees in the vicinity that are taller than the chimney, the wind when blowing from the direction of such trees, will eddy over the top of them and force the draft back down the chimney causing the stove to smoke. In such cases either extend the chimney, as suggested or place a chimney cap on the top of the chimney, of such pattern as will prevent forcing the air back down the chimney.
- A new chimney will never work as well as it will after it has become thoroughly dry. It sometimes takes from two to three weeks to dry out a chimney so that it will do its best work.
- In setting up a stove use just as few elbows as possible. The elbows should always be lower than the hole in the chimney.
- The chimney should be perfectly clean and free from all obstructions and absolutely tight from bottom to top.
- See that the stove stands level, and then fit the pipe to the collar of the stove so no air can be admitted there.
- All the points of stovepipe should fit tightly together. Use the same size stovepipe~ and elbows as the pipe collar when possible, preferable 7-in pipe. No air should be admitted at the joints.
- Don't push the pipe too far into the chimney; the end of the pipe should be just about flush with the inner wall 0 the chimney. Measure the width of the brick, mark this distance on the end of the pipe and push it in just up to this mark.
- Don't let the pipe slip too far into the elbow; if it does, it will close the opening in the elbow and shut off the draft.
- See that no ashes are deposited in the chimney opposite where the stovepipe enters it. If ashes are allowed to collect at this point, they will cut off the draft.
- The stovepipe and chimney hole should always be the same size as the collar on the stove or range. If it is smaller, it won't work as well.
- No two stovepipes should enter the same chimney directly opposite each other; they should be at least 8 or 10 inches apart.
- See that there are no other stovepipe holes on either side of the chimney, above or below, that are left open. If there are any, close them up tightly. If a flue stove is used to do this, see that it fits perfectly tight. Nail it if necessary. If air gets in around such flue stops, it will check the draft of the chimney.
- Be particular to close all openings around the stovepipe where the pipe enters the chimney, as all the air that enters the chimney should be heated by passing through the fire.
- Close tightly the opening through which the chimney is cleaned if there IS one. Sometimes it is located at the bottom of the chimney in another room; then again this opening is in the cellar. Look carefully after this point; this clean-out opening must be tightly closed or trouble will result.
- If there is another stove connected with the same chimney, when there is no fire in such stove all the dampers and draft slides must be closed tightly. If the pipe from a furnace enters the same chimney, be sure to turn the damper in the furnace smoke-pipe, and also close the feed door and the ash-pit door of the furnace and the draft slides in them when no fire is burning in it.
- n rare occasions the chimney furnishes too much draft and the heat is drawn out of the chimney so rapidly that the iron does not have time to absorb it properly. When such is the case, a damper in the stovepipe partially turned will overcome the difficulty.
- Both the stove, the stovepipe, and the chimney must be clean and free from dirt, ashes and soot, and all openings in the pipe and chimney tightly closed.
- An open fireplace should be closed by fitting a piece of sheet iron or steel in the throat of the fireplace with a support underneath. Then pour sand through the chimney hole, covering the sheet iron to a depth of about 6 inches. Fitting a board or sheet iron over the front opening of the fireplace, very often proves unsatisfactory. Do not use a goose neck stovepipe in a hole cut through the fire place stop at the bottom, but instead put a chimney hole the same size of the stovepipe in the chimney about 14 inches from the ceiling.
- The stove must be supplied with fuel at proper times; it must be properly set up, and the chimney and stovepipe must be large enough, tight enough, and long enough to create sufficient draft.
3. Examine your stove so that you know how the grates, drafts and dampers should work to get best results.
When burning coal, the open side of the duplex grate should be uppermost or next to the fire, and both end linings should be left in the firebox.
When burning wood on the duplex grate, remove both end linings and turn the solid part of the grate bars next to the fire.
DOCK ASH GRATE
When burning coal on the Dock Ash Grate, the wide side of the bottom grate bars should be next to the fire and both end linings left in the firebox.
When burning wood on a Dock Ash Grate, place the wood grate with the ribs uppermost on the Dock Ash Grate bars, and remove both end linings from the firebox.
Wood should always lie flat down on the bottom grate. That is why the end linings should be removed. To remove the end linins, take out bolt that holds the center post in place; this releases the fire back and all the linings are liberated, the fire back and front grate should always be left in place when burning wood.
The wood grate is a flat casting, 6x16 inches with 24 round holes in it.
THE DRAFT SLIDE DAMPER
This slide is located in the door at the left end of the range, and when open, admits air under the fire. To make a wood or coal fire burn faster, open the slide. To check the fire, close it.
THE DIRECT DRAFT DAMPER
This damper is located just below the pipe collar at the back of the flue over the oven. To see how it works, remove the lid in front of the pipe collar and pull out the damper handle just at the right of the oven, and then push the damper handle in.
When you pull out the handle, the damper drops backward and lets all the heat go up the pipe. When you push in on the handle, the damper flies up and closes the opening into the pipe thus forcing the heat to go-around the oven and heat it.
When baking, push in on the direct draft handle and close this draft.
THE VENTILATING DAMPER
The handle to the ventilating damper is located between the gas oven door and the broiler oven door. The damper itself opens automatically when you open either of these two doors, and allows the burnt gas to escape from the gas ovens into the pipe. YOU MUST KEEP THE VENTILATING DAMPER OPEN WHEN USING EITHER OF THE GAS OVENS. When the handle is pulled out, the damper is open.
The damper can also be opened by hand without opening either of the gas oven doors. It will have to be closed by hand' in all cases.
The ventilating damper may also be used as a check damper when using coal or wood. KEEP THIS DAMPER CLOSED WHEN YOU HAVE A COAL OR WOOD FIRE, unless you wish to deaden the heat.
Keep a record of successful baking temperatures for future guidance.
TO OPERATE WITH WOOD OR COAL WHEN BURNING WOOD
Use plenty of good kindling with which to start the fire. Open the direct draft damper, also the draft slide in the door below the fire. If the draft is slow, open the door itself until the fire burns briskly.
When the fire is burning brightly and you wish to heat the oven, close the direct draft damper. Regulate the fire with the draft slide that admits air to the fire. If the chimney does not create a good, strong draft, it may be necessary to leave the draft slide door open.
Dry wood burns very freely and some judgment must be used .in allowing the proper amount of air to enter through this slide, however. If opened too wide, the fuel will be burned out quickly and be wasted. If the fire is too brisk, close the direct draft damper and also the slide in the front door draft.
See that the small door under the oven through which the flues are cleaned is tightly closed.
WHEN BURNING HARD COAL
To start a hard coal fire, use charcoal or kindling until you get a bed of coals about two inches deep, then cover With a layer of hard coal about two inches, wait j' until the fuel is nicely glowing, then add another layer of hard coal, and so on until the fire-box is filled even with the top of the fire-back linings. When it has burned down sufficiently to be replenished, shake the ashes out by agitating or revolving the grate with the crank, and add enough more coal to again fill the firebox even with the top of the lining. Empty the ash pan every day.
To keep fire all night with hard coal, turn the grate back and forward with the crank until the grate bars are free of ashes and cinders.
Fill the firebox full almost to the covers; close the draft slide and open the check in the pipe.
To get a quick fire in the morning, drop the direct draft damper backward. Close the check damper and shake the grate bars gently until bright fire shows through the grate bars below.
Open the draft slide door wide. When the unburned coal in the firebox is burning brightly, add more coal in small quantities if necessary, and build your fire up as before mentioned.
It may require several days experimenting to know what to do with each damper to keep fire over night. This is caused by the great difference that exists in chimneys. The chimney that furnishes a strong draft needs more check, the weak chimney not so much. Use stove size or chestnut coal--chestnut gives the best results.
If the fire should need more coal when baking, put in just a small quantity at a time. Do not smother the fire by putting in too much coal, as it will cause the oven to cool off; don't let the fire get too low before adding fresh coal; put in a shoveful or two occasionally.
WHEN BURNING SOFT COAL
When soft coal is used and the chimney draft is weak, the flues soon choke up with soot, and strings of soot will hang to the under side of the covers and centers. When this condition exists, the draft must be improved.
To get the best results, clean the flues of the stove about once a week-sometimes oftener-depending altogether upon the draft of the chimney and the accumulation of soot. Never allow soft coal to be above the top of the fire back. If you do, you are wasting fuel and choking the combustion.
On account of the difference in the heating power of different kinds of soft coal, better results will be obtained sometimes by not filling the firebox quite so full, and it may be an inch or two below the top of the three-piece fire-back.
If the fire should need more coal when baking, put in just a small amount at a time; then you do not smother the fire and cause the oven to cool off.
Regulate the draft so as to get the proper combustion -too much draft causes a waste of fuel and the oven to become too hot for baking.
DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE SMOKE caused by the first fire. This smoke and the accompanying odor are simply caused by the burning of the stove blacking and cement in the joints; they will disappear in a short time.
WHEN BURNING ANY KIND OF FUEL, THE THREE-PIECE FIREBACK SHOULD ALWAYS BE LEFT IN PLACE IN THE FIREBOX.
DON'T PUT ANYTHING INTO THE OVEN TO BAKE UNTIL THE OVEN BOTTOM IS THOROUGHLY HOT, testing it by placing the hand near the oven bottom. If the oven bottom heats slowly, open the door in which the draft slide is located. Leave it open until the oven bottom is plenty hot enough, then put in the baking and close the draft slide door. Keep the heat moving around the oven by opening or closing the slide in the door as is found necessary.
The oven of a new range usually heats very quickly at the top, and if you don't get the bottom thoroughly heated, the food will bake too fast on top and perhaps burn before it is done on the bottom. REMEMBERHEAT THE BOTTOM OF THE OVEN THOROUGHLY BEFORE YOU PUT IN YOUR BAKING. Otherwise the dough will simply dry out and will not bake at all.
TO OPERATE WITH GAS
POSITION OF BURNERS-
See that all gas burners are level on the gas burner hangers when you set up the range. On account of varying gas pressure in' different localities, the top gas burners are adjustable so that they can be raised or lowered to meet the requirements of gas companies in different places.
GAS PIPE CONNECTIONS-
The supply pipe leading from the meter to the range should not be less than three quarters of an inch inside diameter.
Have a gas cock or valve connected to the supply pipe where it is connected to the pipe furnished with the range, so when entirely through using the gas range the supply of gas can be cut off. This is a safeguard against leakage.
REGULATION OF FLAME
The adjustment of gas and air supply must be regulated by the once in gas cock, and air mixer at end of burner. An attempt to cut down gas in the supply pipe will produce imperfect combustion.
After opening any valve let the burner fill with gas before applying a light. This prevents popping back.
If burner blows only slightly at first it will cease after the burner gets hot. If there is too much blowing, shut off air by partly closing the mixer slide, or cut down the gas pressure by screwing the adjusting cap to the left, or do both slightly.
To increase the size of flame, turn the once to the right and if this causes the burner to blow too much, open the mixer slide.
A white or red flame is wasteful and causes discoloration of cooking vessels. To avoid this, open air mixer and if necessary decrease flow of gas by turning orifice to the left.
Turn gas to point where flame covers bottom of utensil only. Gas is wasted when flames flares around the side of the kettle. A top burner need never be lighted till the kettle is ready. Keep the flame blue.
Your gas bill grows in dollars and cents in proportion to your own carelessness and indifference.
TO LIGHT COOKING BURNERS-
Light the cooking burners as you would a gas jet. If the gas should catch fire inside the tube, immediately turn off the gas supply for a moment and then light as' usual. This "firing" back does not occur very often and no danger is accompanied by it. It may be caused by the mixture of air and gas not being in right proportion.
TO LIGHT OVEN BURNERS
Open the gas cock marked oven and count five deliberately, then hold lighted match over the small hole in front corner of oven bottom.
When baking do not place the pans on the bottom. Put everything to be baked or roasted on the oven racks and place the racks in the guides wherever necessary to accommodate the pan, and as your judgment dictates.
Always leave the ventilating damper open when baking with gas.
HOW TO BROIL-
When using broiler it should be heated a few minutes before being used.
When broiling meat, place the meat close to the flame for a few minutes until the surface is thoroughly seared, then turn it over and sear the other side; this closes the pores in the meat so that the juices are retained in it.
Be careful not to have the flame too high or it will cook too quickly and the grease may catch fire. Be sure to wash and' dry the broiling pan and rack thoroughly after using, so as to prevent rusting.
On a Peerless Combination range equipped to burn NATURAL gas, there is a damper handle just over the coal oven door. When cooking on top of the gas. section of your stove, pull this damper handle out so that the gas fumes may escape up the flue.
HOW TO CLEAN THE FLUES
In cleaning the bottom flues, always scrape the soot off the under side of the oven bottom by sliding the scraper along hugging the top of the flue until it reaches the back, then drop it squarely down and pull it towards the opening, hugging the bottom of the flue closely. Do not slide the scraper along the bottom of the flue when you insert it; by so doing you will push the ashes and soot to the back of the flue and bank them up there so no draft can get through the opening where the smoke turns to go up the chimney. If the draft is so strong that it pulls the ashes and soot back into the flue, close the draft slide and open the direct draft damper and remove the lid in front of the pipe collar.
To clean the vertical flue at the right end of the oven, remove the gas top burners and drip pan and burner box, and you will see a cover over the flue. Remove this and insert the scraper, pushing the soot down and taking it out from underneath the oven.
TO REMOVE LININGS-
To remove the linings of the baking over, take hold of the side linings or guides that hold the oven rack at the back and lift them up, and bring them toward the center of the oven. You will notice a flange on' the front and on the bottom of this lining or oven rack guide, and in replacing it, place the flange inside of the front frame and then push down so that the other flange comes on the outside of the oven bottom. After removing the two side linings, take out the back lining and the oven bottom is easily taken out by lifting at the back and all can be cleaned with a sponge or cloth, and the oven burner can be inspected or removed if necessary to clean, or to see if the burner holes are all free from dirt.
HOW TO CLEAN BURNERS-
To clean the cooking burners put them in boiling water and washing soda or washing powder. When thoroughly boiled and cleaned, dry them over the flame of one of the other burners so that they will not rust. If you don’t take care of this, you will find there will be some accumulation of red rust spots. See that all the holes in burners are open and free. They must not be allowed to become stopped - clean with a small wire or hatpin.
How to operate Glenwood Gas/Wood dual fuel stoves
TO OPERATE COAL FIRED UNIT
- Damper (A) controls the chimney draft.
The chimney draft varies in different houses. In a majority of houses, this damper can be set at COAL and need never be changed excepting for the purpose of holding a fire over night. If this damper be entirely or partly closed, it will reduce the chimney draft accordingly. To open damper, turn handle to extreme right, half check in center, and to close entirely be sure handle is turned toward left. When operating both coal and gas ovens at same time, set damper (A) at "coal".
- Damper (B) is the oven damper.
and must be CLOSED to bake in the oven. When this damper is open, the heat from the firebox goes directly into the chimney, while with it closed, the heat must travel over and around the oven thus heating it. Smoke issuing from lids when damper is closed results from choked flues.
- Damper (C) regulates the amount of air admitted to the fire. The fire burns hottest with this damper open. From the above explanation, it is plain that to start or increase the fire in your range, you should open damper (A), tipping the handle to extreme right and open dampers (B) and ·(C) thereby obtaining the full draft of chimney and admitting the full amount of air to the fire.
- Damper (D) when open (tipped toward right) acts as an additional check for coal-fired unit. It should always be closed (tipped toward left) when baking in coal oven.
To Bake in Coal Fired Oven
- Close the Damper (B).
This causes the heat to travel over and around the oven. The heat of the oven is governed by the intensity of the fire, which can be regulated by dampers (C) and (A).
To heat the oven hot, of course, it is essential to have a clean fire, well supplied with fuel. Do not fill firebox so that the coal will be above the linings. The oven flues must be cleaned occasionally for if they become clogged with ashes and soot the heat from the fire cannot get to the oven.
Instructions for Cleaning Oven Flues
- To Clean Top Flue
Remove two lids in coal range top, also plate (E) located beneath pan under gas cooking burners and scrape all ashes in direction indicated by· arrows No. 1 and 2.
- To Clean Side Flue
Remove plate (E) located beneath pap under gas cooking burners and scrape all ashes to bottom as indicated by arrow No.2.
- To Clean Bottom Flues
Remove plate (F) under shelf below oven door and scrape all ashes out through opening (F) into pan placed on kitchen floor, as indicated by arrows No. 3 and 4, and at the same time thoroughly cleaning under side of oven bottom.
Be careful to replace plates (E) and (F) securely.
TO OPERATE GAS FIRED UNIT
- Damper (A) is used for carrying fumes from cooking food in gas baking oven and broiler to chimney, as well as a check damper for coal fire unit.
To open damper, turn handle to extreme right, half check in center, and to close entirely be sure handle is turned toward left.
- Damper (D) opens and closes vent in top burner chamber and must be opened when using closed top range or when burning natural gas. When open it also acts as an additional check to coal fire.
The Baking Oven Burners and Broiling Oven Burner should be lighted five to ten minutes before the oven is used.
To light Baking Oven Burner open oven door, turn on gas and apply match immediately to Light Hole in oven bottom just inside of door.
ALWAYS OPEN THE DOOR BEFORE ADMITTING GAS TO THE BURNERS.
When broiling, the broiler door should be left open.
The Gas Unit should also be kept clean.
If the port holes in the burners become clogged, the burners can be easily removed and cleaned, by boiling them in water containing strong washing powder. To preserve the sheet metal linings from rust, grease them occasionally with olive oil or suet.
The flames of the burners should be clean and blue and about 5-16 of an inch high. This proper flame is obtained by the combination of the proper proportions of gas and air. The amount of gas entering the burner is regulated by screwing in or out the adjustable cap on the end of the gas cock which enters the burner. The air supply is regulated by means of the shutter on the end of the burner. If the flame of the burner is too high or too low, or yellow in color, it needs adjusting which can be best done by your dealer who installed the stove.
Testimonials about Gas/Wood dual fuel antique stoves
“I use the oven just about every weekend. Its so much simpler to use than a modern one. I’ve cooked with gas ovens before. The thermostat seems really accurate as cooking times haven’t varied from what I am used to. I just turn the gas full on, set the thermostat and let it do the work; no worries.”
“Thank you sara, made plum pie last night. yum!! wish i could share it with you.”
“Thank you sara, made plum pie last night. yum!! wish i could share it with you.”
“WOW! It's perfect! Just perfect...Can't believe how good you and Richard are at restoring these stoves. It is truly a special talent!!! Thanks so much for making this stove come alive for me. It will make this entire project perfect. It looks like it was made for my cabin in the woods!!!! Once again thank you and thank you so much for working things out with me!!! I appreciate it so much.”
“I received the pictures of the hood and range together and they look great! It looks like the range cleaned/finished up real well. I can’t wait to see it installed.”
“The stove is beautiful and is perfect for my little house and kitchen. I am so happy with the decision and am looking forward to cooking on it soon! Have a blessed summer and may all your stoves go out from there and bless many homes”